Legend has it that an early guide on Shasta was asked by his client, a woman named Helen, what the name of the nearby lake was. Higher basecamps on the route include the well-known Helen Lake, which really isn’t a lake at all. Most Avalanche Gulch climbers will pass by the Sierra Club property at Horse Camp, which offers a great lower basecamp and a historical cabin to check out. Today, Avalanche Gulch is climbed successfully each year (with no hot spring baths) by hundreds of people each season. Trapped alone by a sudden blizzard on the summit, Muir was forced to take shelter overnight in the warmth of the hot springs near the summit. It was first climbed in the nineteenth century by none other than John Muir over an epic two days in which he almost didn’t make it down alive (a common occurrence for Muir).
But that doesn’t mean it’s an easy climb! With over 7000 feet of vertical gain from trail head to summit, even the standard Avalanche Gulch route can be very strenuous and it requires stamina, good mountain sense and the use of ice axe and crampons… along with the skill and knowledge to use them safely.Īvalanche Gulch is Mount Shasta’s standard and most popular climbing route. With a non-glaciated South side, Shasta offers beginner big-mountain snow climbing routes without the added hazards of crevasses and ice falls.
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